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oscar is 13month old lab x collie he look like a black Labrador retriever with a collies tale and instincts he loves to run and jump obstacles he also herds the cats around the house and puts his toys in piles he is extremely clever he is my dog (im 13) and me and my dad are the only people in the house he really responds to the only problem is he is aggressive towards other dogs which means we are restricted to walking him in a field next to our house and whenever we meet other dogs he either goes forward barking(sometimes biting) or retreats and surrenders i usually walk him with my friends Labradoodle they get along well but i always walk him with a muzzle since he bit him when he slipped his lead(he usually only bites when he is of the lead and the other dog is on the lead?).any tips or help will be appreciated and any activities you think might help (fly ball, agility and herding)

he is very good of the lead and responds well to commands its just the aggression holding us back
also sometimes people make comments about my age and how i should not be handling him? i think i control him well, moving him out the way of the other dogs and i do warn people about him

i really need help!

i was using a slip lead but i brought a normal clip one, his muzzle is a baskerville muzzle which he has no way of getting off
i dont know wether my parents are willing to pay for training

First off – 13 is plenty old enough to control a dog, I don’t know what those people are talking about. It’s how you act and think, not your age, that the dog cares about. My 3 year old nephew can control my collie.

Aggression is a very serious issue. There is a lot of help out there about it. Look on the dogbreedinfo website -http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/ – this is a very good site about dogs with lots of articles on dog training. The most important thing is to make sure you are the top dog. If this is the case it makes everything else much easier. Does your dog pull? This is one thing to really watch out for. If he pulls then he is in charge of the walk and first in line to deal with strangers. To me what you said sounds as though he feels insecure – as if he has the responsibility of meeting strangers and doesn’t know how to go about it. However it’s impossible to know just from your post.

You are very responsible to have muzzled your dog and I would keep that muzzle on until you get a completely desirable reaction from your dog. I have only had one problem with dog-dog aggression and that is with the two dogs I am currently looking after. They are terriers and very aggressive towards others. First I have taken charge of them by only allowing them to do what I want, when I want them. I don’t let them jump up. I stopped them pulling using slip chains – these have a bad reputation due to misuse but if used correctly they are the single best method of stopping a dog from pulling. To use one correctly you first put it on correctly so that it will slacken immediately you let go of it. When the dog walks in front of you, you give a jerk – not a yank, you’re not trying to choke the dog – and the dog gets back into position and the chain slackens. A couple of snaps is all it should take and the dog will walk perfectly. If used correctly these are a lot better for a dog’s neck than having him pull on a collar – instead of a constant pull all you get is a couple of small jerks. Any sized dog can be controlled with a slip chain. Don’t listen to those who don’t understand how to use one – they are indeed often abused, but so are cars and alcohol.

To stop the dogs from barking at another dog I say "A-A!" very sharply to get their attention (it is such a harsh couple of syllables and it is also how dogs tell each other off – so better than "no"). If they carry on I grab their scruffs and shake them. If they see a dog and don’t bark, I praise them profusely. It has taken a week and they are silent when another dog is around, they just watch it and wag their tails and look at me, even if it’s barking at them. The important thing is to stay consistent – never let them bark at another dog and never let them walk in front of you. This way a dog will know his place and be confident within it.

Another way if you have a friend with a dog – and perhaps a better way, though I have never been able to try it – is to have your friend walk his dog closer and closer to yours. You need a big field for this so the other dog starts off a long way from yours. Keep giving your dog treats every few seconds and lots of praise. Try to keep his attention. As soon as he starts barking at your friend’s dog remove all treats and praise, ignore the dog and get your friend to move his dog away. Then start again.

There could also be an underlying reason your dog acts the way he acts – labs and collies aren’t aggressive by nature. The first thing you should do is talk to your vet about it as he could have something wrong with him.

She is only 6 weeks because her mother was hit by a car, . She is fed properly for her age and completely healthy. I would like to just start housebreaking her and training her not to bite or chew. She is currently wearing diapers during the day and then left in a room with a crate on one end and a puppy pad on the other but she doesn’t use the puppy pad even though I keep putting her on it. any help would be greatly appreciated
She is wearing an actual PUPPY diaper not a BABY diaper first of all. Second, my vet (the one with the degree) told me they are completely safe and to make sure I change every time she goes which I do. She eats 3x a day INCLUDING a special mouse for puppies who have left their mom before 8 weeks and she is on vitamins recommended by my vet. Also, the reason I asked for tips is because FROM RESEARCH I have learned you can START potty training LARGE BREED dogs from 6 weeks. I don’t expect it to happen overnight. So please, before you "try" to act like you know something actually go out and get reliable information.
And, she pees and poops whenever she likes regardless if she has just drank or has eaten recently and I already take her out once every hour.Tthe diaper is a PRECAUTION because a 3 year old lives in my house and I don’t want him stepping in something FULL of bacteria and getting sick because I turned my back for a few minutes and she decided to go.

Here is the paper I give out with all the puppies I place…..

Tips on your new puppy…..
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Crying at night:
–If your puppy won’t stop crying at night, here is something that will be effective. First, NEVER yell at or hit your puppy. She will just learn to fear you. Put a handful of pennies in a metal coffee can. Every time your puppy starts to cry, keep your body out of sight and shake that can real close to the puppy, real hard. You want to startle the puppy for a second, so she will stop to listen. If you make a pleasing noise, or try to “ease” your puppy to sleep, it will relate crying to getting attention from you.
–Keep the lights out, or at least dim at night and that will help the puppy sleep and keep it from seeing you with the penny can.

Housebreaking:
–It’s much easier to prevent a bad habit, than to try to fix one that already exists. Keeping this in mind, try not to give your puppy the opportunity to mess up. Give him/her plenty of trips outside. And don’t leave her alone unattended. She should be put in a crate when you can’t watch her. Puppies actually feel safe in a crate. They are “den-animals” and as long as they can see the family from where they are, they will feel secure. Puppies like to have alone time too.
–A general rule is that a puppy can “hold it” for it’s age in months, plus 2 hours. So…. If your puppy is 2 months old, she can hold it for 4 hours. That is, unless it has just eaten or drank a lot.
–It’s tempting to want to let your puppy eat all it wants. But then it will be using the bathroom all the time. A puppy will be fine for 8 hrs without food. Being fed morning and night up to 6 months old is a good schedule, then just once a day. That’s all they need to grow and thrive. Ask you Veterinarian.
–About 15 minutes after your puppy eats, take it outside where you want it to use the bathroom. Walking in small areas helps because if you just stand there, the puppy will just come to you. But if you keep slowly walking, the puppy will follow you and eventually go to the bathroom.
–If your puppy has an accident in the house, clean it up with a paper towel and put it outside where you want her to go to the bathroom. The next time your puppy is out there and smells the paper towel, it will prompt her to “go” there. And you can throw that paper towel away then.
–THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER, a puppy cannot help it if it has to go to the bathroom. I just can’t. It can take months and months to housebreak a dog. PLEASE be patient. And NEVER hit the puppy because it doesn’t understand the rules yet. Hey, it takes 2-3 years to potty train a human. Just keep that in mind.
–One more thing… if you decide to use puppy training pads, place them in several convenient areas that will be easy for the puppy to find. Gradually reduce the number of pads you are using to just 1 pad. When your puppy gets the hang of using the pad every time, begin slowly moving the pad toward the door and eventually outside. The puppy will go to the door to look for the pad and you will be able to let her out.

Chewing:
–Puppies chew for 2 reasons. One, it feels good. Two, it released excess energy. So, keep plenty of safe chew toys on hand. Keep one or two in the crate and a few in the pup’s play area.
–If you don’t want your puppy to chew your child’s stuffed animals, don’t buy your puppy stuffed animals, it’s still a dog and just doesn’t understand the difference. Same goes with old shoes.
–A neat toy for a small puppy is an adult size toothbrush. It helps brush their teeth, and relieves boredom. Once the pup is big enough to chew up the handle, take it away though.

Foods for puppy:
Always feed your puppy a PUPPY FORMULA food, up to at least 1 year of age. Never feed a dog canned food exclusively. Or the "moist N’ meaty" exclusively. They need hard food to help scrape tartar from their teeth.
Also, brands aren’t as important as ingredients. Some expensive brands have ’bad’ ingredients. Here’s what to look for…

#1. Dogs are not vegetarians, look for a food with meat as the first ingredient.

#2. Do Not feed a dog food that uses BHT as a preservative. Its an artificial preservative and has been shown to cause health issues when fed over long periods of time.

#3. Mixed tocopherols are a natural preservative and completely safe. Over time I have seen and been around dogs that are on ‘bad’ foods such as Pedigree, Beneful, etc., and have seen what can happen to them. They seemed healthy when they were young but developed skin problems, hair loss, tumors, seizures, weight gain or loss, bad breath and teeth… etc. Usually poorly fed dogs are on a lot of medications for things that could be avoided and meds will only lower the immune system even more. These types of these foods contain rancid meats, by products, carcinogens and many fillers like wheat and corn that dogs have no use for.

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Good luck with your puppy. Enjoy him or her!

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To train a drug dog, first get them obsessed with a ball and then familiarize them with the odors that they’ll later be told to find. Train a drug dog with tips from an experienced dog trainer in this free video on dog obedience.

Expert: Ty Brown
Contact: www.communicanine.net
Bio: Ty Brown has been a dog trainer for over 10 years.
Filmmaker: Michael Burton

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